Susegad in Pristine Authentic South Goa.
The week before I was much more tensed about the long weekend plans for 24,25,26 Jan. Even on Thursday travel planner wasn't fixed. After drop of Soumitra and one of my friend things got worse. My GTalk message was conveying the message "Planssssss....?". Thursday, Deep confirmed himself and finally I sigh a breath of relief that at least I will not waste my weekend in city in front of the "Idiot panel(now a days LCD TVs are affordable)". After a long futile fight for the lodging arrangements in Dapoli and surrounding areas we switched ourselves to Satara. But at the eleventh hour Deep flashed an idea of Goa where we had our stay in his Mama's house with the only condition that I have to leave office early. Soon I confirmed and one more plan-change pitched in to avoid the night Amboli ghat drive. To my surprise Amboli MTDC resort readily reserved a room for 3 of us, Pankaj - भटकंती Unlimited, Deep - (extra)OrdinaryWorld and (Alaska)Nikhil. Former 2 are flickr usernames and the story of Alaska Nikhil will follow subsequently.
We set off from Pune for Amboli at 4:30.The smooth drive on NH-4 witnessing a clear marvelous sunset towards our right side was a fun. We halted at Satara at my friend's tractor showroom (whose house would be our place for 2 days if we would have decided for Satara). After a refreshing tea there e headed towards Kolhapur. After few kilometers we realized that we have to have dinner before we take a Amboli turn from NH-4. Quickly cell phones came out of pocket friends' phones started ringing with our calls asking for the good place to eat. Finally we got the suggested place called "श्री दत्त भुवन", a famous place for Kolahapuri "मटण-भाकरी" after Karad. We had satisfied our tantalizing taste buds with the "कोल्हापुरी तांबडा रस्सा" until the smoke came out from our ears :-D. Once our appetites were satisfied it was a turn for our machine - Deep's car to have its share of fuel. Refilling us and the car made us to feel more confident and Kolahpur_Nipani stretched Deep's car touched 160kmph+ in the fourth gear leaving fifth to spare. After Nipani turn the road becomes worse in the Maharashtra-Karnataka border areas and Deep bumped a car in a "mine deep" like pothole and regretted that the car was not driven by the driver, when at least he could have put all his frustration on his driver. We reached Amboli MTDC resort where a "रामसे बंधू" style suspense security guard with a long woolen overcoat welcomed us and shut off the gates as soon as we entered there. No wonder we were in our dreams on the cozy beds after a such long drive.
Next morning we started at 8:00am in the morning with the curves of Amboli Ghat with the accompanying dense jungles of Sawantwadi and the soothing "पिया बावरी" vocal ragas CD of Pt. Ajay Pohankar and his son Abhijit on keyboards. Within two and half hour we reached the place called Nuvem (नुवें) near Madgaon (another 50-60km from Panjim), where we had house of Deep's Mama waiting for us. We had our breakfast at the bakery with the coffee and meanwhile Vivek Mama arrived there. The house was under renovation but the outhouse was ready for us with all plush facilities and that too right besides the river. A french door opening towards the river made us go mad with the view. As soon as we entered the gate and were unloading the bags from the car boot a pair of Pied Kingfishers welcomed us with their unique sound chiv-chiv. The plan for 2 days was yet to be fixed. This time (I have 3 trips to Goa so far) we had decided visit the unusual nad undiscovered places in a relaxing luxury instead of running after the places around. Hence the North Goa was ruled out which is famous for the colorful crowded beaches and night life at Baga, Calangute, Panjim, etc. Thankfully Deep's cousin Nikhil (not the Alaska-Nikhil) came to our rescue and with the help of Vivek Mama & Gayatri Mami we fixed a plan for two days.
First visit was to a "Udiyaar spring" near the Nuvem village. On the way we saw a lake full with thousands of water lilies. The place was beautiful but with very less water in this season. But this trip there paid back with the beautiful view of plenty of sunbirds. Red crimson, purple busted are to name few of those. After this visit we were in search of the good point to shoot sunset and we decided to head to Three Kings' Church which is on top of the hill and from there we could have a hawk eye view of the surrounding right from Dabolim Airport, BITS-Goa campus and ad the sea across the palm trees. We decided to be there again at the time of sunset. On return we went to Majorda beach of a lunch and there was Nikhil who speaks Goan-Konkani and could get a descent deal for the food at Sam's Goan Shack. A salad-decorated platter of Red snapper (Tomso in Konkani) and Fired Calamari (Squid slices) along with the favorite आंबटतिख (AmbatTikh- special Goan curry with fish stakes)of shark made all other Sam's Goan Shack firangi visitors to stare at us. As soon as food went inside we were feeling sleepy. Returned home for a small nap. But the Kingfisher duo didn't allow us to do so. Their play over the river water watched through the french door while sitting in the house was the best birding experience so far. Whenever they put themselves in action we ran for the cameras and lenses to capture their action jumping over the compound wall and putting blame on Nikhil for the stains on the new paint. (coz he has a habit of being leader in all difficult situation, sorry Nikhil).
As the evening ticked in the watches we canceled the sunset from 3 Kings' Church and decided to shoot it from Majorda beach. The beach in the evening was like a shimmering gold and we could capture few amazing silhouettes and a dramatic sunset with the streaks of clouds. Truly whenever I see the sunset its different from all of the previous ones. Evening lingering around on the beach and a same shacks's dinner withe the company of Vivek Mama made our day. While chit-chatting on the beach I remind about one photo from the Photographers@Pune group pool by Sydney Alvares and asked guide Nikhil about the lit church with the reflection in the church. He immediately tod us that it is a Curtorim Church which was very nearby our house. While going there we were hit by a thick fog and while checking the fog lights Deep almost collided his car with an electric pole, but saved. Reaching at the church was a visual delight for us. The orange and blue lights lit the church and its reflection in the adjacent lake is awesome experience. We photographed this Church and returned back to home with tired feelings and went off the beds.
Next morning again it was a calm blue Majorda beach leisure, followed by asali Goan Bhaji-Paav (not Paav-Bhaji) and then we headed to Vivek Mama's house and then towards "Cabo da Rama" fort picking him up along with his sharp and brilliant son Omkar. The same Omkar who named our Pune's Nikhil as Alaska-Nikhil. There were two Nikhils with us. One was Pune-wala and another was Deep's cousine. And Omkar for his convenience named Pune Nikhil as Alaska-Nikhil as he was wearing a Alaska cap. The lunch at the Asolana (असोळना) village in the river side restaurant was a life time experience for us. Enjoying a sea food (prawns, crabs, squids, shark आंबटतिख)with the river side view, where sea-gulls swimming around, Eagles marking their presence and Kingfishers diving for the fish in the river was "The moment" for us. If someone had asked my wish there I would have replied "I want to stay here forever". :-)
After re-energizing ourselves we went to the "Cabo da Rama" (House of Rama) fort. It was captured by the Portuguese and then won over again by the Marathas. The fort then shuffled back and forth during which several additions were made to the original fort. The underground tunnels for example were built by the Portuguese to escape in case of any emergency. The British, later used this fort as a prison. Now however, the fort stands in ruins in Goa. However, the beautiful church in the vicinity stands in good condition. Besides the fort itself, the amazing view offered by the fort is memorable. One can view the fishing boats in the surrounding sea waters, ocean waves challenging the sea shore, palm groves and small yet beatiful beach. The beach here was not the usual sand beach. But it was of all colorful pebbles and shells with crystal clear blue ocean. Truly it was the pristine and clean beach I have ever seen after DiveAgar. We descended down from the fort to the beach and while returning back instead of usual trodden paths we decided to scale it from the wall itself from within the jungle. It proved to be adventurous and enjoying trek itself (Dunno whether Alaska-Nikhil has the same feelings or not). Again the sunset from the fort, being on the higher point than sea, was clean and sharp. We could watch sun until it sets fully into the ocean.
On the return from the fort we had a dinner at Vivek Mama's home and Gayatri Mami had prepared a Catholic Goan sea food for us with shrimps, mackerels marinated with Reshad spices (Goan spice with Vinegar). Once we had dinner full upto oour necks, bid a good bye to Mama and Mami and returned to guest house to leave next morning for Pune.
Being my birthday my cell phone started ringing with calls and SMSs from early morning, while we were setting off for Pune at 6:30am. The return journey was quite smooth with only 2 stops for breakfast and lunch. When clock was stroking for 4pm we reached Pune with the memories of "like never before" Goa trip.
I would remember this trip forever for Pied Kingfisher watch for hours, fish cuisines, calm Majorda beach, Alaska Nikhil, Cabo da Rama, night shots at Church, wonderful drive by Deep, and Goan आंबटतिख, crabs those I ate and wonderful people of Goa (esp. Vivek Mama, Gayatri Mami, Nikhil.K).
PS. “Relax, take your time, enjoy life, be happy. That’s Susegad or सुशेगाद.”
Couple of more Goan-Konkani words those I know are शीत (rice), उंडो (bread).
We set off from Pune for Amboli at 4:30.The smooth drive on NH-4 witnessing a clear marvelous sunset towards our right side was a fun. We halted at Satara at my friend's tractor showroom (whose house would be our place for 2 days if we would have decided for Satara). After a refreshing tea there e headed towards Kolhapur. After few kilometers we realized that we have to have dinner before we take a Amboli turn from NH-4. Quickly cell phones came out of pocket friends' phones started ringing with our calls asking for the good place to eat. Finally we got the suggested place called "श्री दत्त भुवन", a famous place for Kolahapuri "मटण-भाकरी" after Karad. We had satisfied our tantalizing taste buds with the "कोल्हापुरी तांबडा रस्सा" until the smoke came out from our ears :-D. Once our appetites were satisfied it was a turn for our machine - Deep's car to have its share of fuel. Refilling us and the car made us to feel more confident and Kolahpur_Nipani stretched Deep's car touched 160kmph+ in the fourth gear leaving fifth to spare. After Nipani turn the road becomes worse in the Maharashtra-Karnataka border areas and Deep bumped a car in a "mine deep" like pothole and regretted that the car was not driven by the driver, when at least he could have put all his frustration on his driver. We reached Amboli MTDC resort where a "रामसे बंधू" style suspense security guard with a long woolen overcoat welcomed us and shut off the gates as soon as we entered there. No wonder we were in our dreams on the cozy beds after a such long drive.
Next morning we started at 8:00am in the morning with the curves of Amboli Ghat with the accompanying dense jungles of Sawantwadi and the soothing "पिया बावरी" vocal ragas CD of Pt. Ajay Pohankar and his son Abhijit on keyboards. Within two and half hour we reached the place called Nuvem (नुवें) near Madgaon (another 50-60km from Panjim), where we had house of Deep's Mama waiting for us. We had our breakfast at the bakery with the coffee and meanwhile Vivek Mama arrived there. The house was under renovation but the outhouse was ready for us with all plush facilities and that too right besides the river. A french door opening towards the river made us go mad with the view. As soon as we entered the gate and were unloading the bags from the car boot a pair of Pied Kingfishers welcomed us with their unique sound chiv-chiv. The plan for 2 days was yet to be fixed. This time (I have 3 trips to Goa so far) we had decided visit the unusual nad undiscovered places in a relaxing luxury instead of running after the places around. Hence the North Goa was ruled out which is famous for the colorful crowded beaches and night life at Baga, Calangute, Panjim, etc. Thankfully Deep's cousin Nikhil (not the Alaska-Nikhil) came to our rescue and with the help of Vivek Mama & Gayatri Mami we fixed a plan for two days.
First visit was to a "Udiyaar spring" near the Nuvem village. On the way we saw a lake full with thousands of water lilies. The place was beautiful but with very less water in this season. But this trip there paid back with the beautiful view of plenty of sunbirds. Red crimson, purple busted are to name few of those. After this visit we were in search of the good point to shoot sunset and we decided to head to Three Kings' Church which is on top of the hill and from there we could have a hawk eye view of the surrounding right from Dabolim Airport, BITS-Goa campus and ad the sea across the palm trees. We decided to be there again at the time of sunset. On return we went to Majorda beach of a lunch and there was Nikhil who speaks Goan-Konkani and could get a descent deal for the food at Sam's Goan Shack. A salad-decorated platter of Red snapper (Tomso in Konkani) and Fired Calamari (Squid slices) along with the favorite आंबटतिख (AmbatTikh- special Goan curry with fish stakes)of shark made all other Sam's Goan Shack firangi visitors to stare at us. As soon as food went inside we were feeling sleepy. Returned home for a small nap. But the Kingfisher duo didn't allow us to do so. Their play over the river water watched through the french door while sitting in the house was the best birding experience so far. Whenever they put themselves in action we ran for the cameras and lenses to capture their action jumping over the compound wall and putting blame on Nikhil for the stains on the new paint. (coz he has a habit of being leader in all difficult situation, sorry Nikhil).
As the evening ticked in the watches we canceled the sunset from 3 Kings' Church and decided to shoot it from Majorda beach. The beach in the evening was like a shimmering gold and we could capture few amazing silhouettes and a dramatic sunset with the streaks of clouds. Truly whenever I see the sunset its different from all of the previous ones. Evening lingering around on the beach and a same shacks's dinner withe the company of Vivek Mama made our day. While chit-chatting on the beach I remind about one photo from the Photographers@Pune group pool by Sydney Alvares and asked guide Nikhil about the lit church with the reflection in the church. He immediately tod us that it is a Curtorim Church which was very nearby our house. While going there we were hit by a thick fog and while checking the fog lights Deep almost collided his car with an electric pole, but saved. Reaching at the church was a visual delight for us. The orange and blue lights lit the church and its reflection in the adjacent lake is awesome experience. We photographed this Church and returned back to home with tired feelings and went off the beds.
Next morning again it was a calm blue Majorda beach leisure, followed by asali Goan Bhaji-Paav (not Paav-Bhaji) and then we headed to Vivek Mama's house and then towards "Cabo da Rama" fort picking him up along with his sharp and brilliant son Omkar. The same Omkar who named our Pune's Nikhil as Alaska-Nikhil. There were two Nikhils with us. One was Pune-wala and another was Deep's cousine. And Omkar for his convenience named Pune Nikhil as Alaska-Nikhil as he was wearing a Alaska cap. The lunch at the Asolana (असोळना) village in the river side restaurant was a life time experience for us. Enjoying a sea food (prawns, crabs, squids, shark आंबटतिख)with the river side view, where sea-gulls swimming around, Eagles marking their presence and Kingfishers diving for the fish in the river was "The moment" for us. If someone had asked my wish there I would have replied "I want to stay here forever". :-)
After re-energizing ourselves we went to the "Cabo da Rama" (House of Rama) fort. It was captured by the Portuguese and then won over again by the Marathas. The fort then shuffled back and forth during which several additions were made to the original fort. The underground tunnels for example were built by the Portuguese to escape in case of any emergency. The British, later used this fort as a prison. Now however, the fort stands in ruins in Goa. However, the beautiful church in the vicinity stands in good condition. Besides the fort itself, the amazing view offered by the fort is memorable. One can view the fishing boats in the surrounding sea waters, ocean waves challenging the sea shore, palm groves and small yet beatiful beach. The beach here was not the usual sand beach. But it was of all colorful pebbles and shells with crystal clear blue ocean. Truly it was the pristine and clean beach I have ever seen after DiveAgar. We descended down from the fort to the beach and while returning back instead of usual trodden paths we decided to scale it from the wall itself from within the jungle. It proved to be adventurous and enjoying trek itself (Dunno whether Alaska-Nikhil has the same feelings or not). Again the sunset from the fort, being on the higher point than sea, was clean and sharp. We could watch sun until it sets fully into the ocean.
On the return from the fort we had a dinner at Vivek Mama's home and Gayatri Mami had prepared a Catholic Goan sea food for us with shrimps, mackerels marinated with Reshad spices (Goan spice with Vinegar). Once we had dinner full upto oour necks, bid a good bye to Mama and Mami and returned to guest house to leave next morning for Pune.
Being my birthday my cell phone started ringing with calls and SMSs from early morning, while we were setting off for Pune at 6:30am. The return journey was quite smooth with only 2 stops for breakfast and lunch. When clock was stroking for 4pm we reached Pune with the memories of "like never before" Goa trip.
I would remember this trip forever for Pied Kingfisher watch for hours, fish cuisines, calm Majorda beach, Alaska Nikhil, Cabo da Rama, night shots at Church, wonderful drive by Deep, and Goan आंबटतिख, crabs those I ate and wonderful people of Goa (esp. Vivek Mama, Gayatri Mami, Nikhil.K).
PS. “Relax, take your time, enjoy life, be happy. That’s Susegad or सुशेगाद.”
Couple of more Goan-Konkani words those I know are शीत (rice), उंडो (bread).
The pics of pied king and OW's beachscape leaves me wanting for more of your such trips. You guys have done a huge upkar on the folks like me who follow your photography trails daily!!
ReplyDeleteMay you have many more such expeditions and may we get such treats more often.
BTW Belated Birthday Wishes!!
Guys, lovely pictures!!Though I have an annual pilgrimage to north Goa, your memoirs inspires me to visit the southern part of the state next time. Incidently, I was in north Goa during the same period and had blast of a time. Goa also boasts of 3 wildlife sancturies...perhaps we could plan out next time !
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